Bowl Turning

After selecting a suitable piece of hardwood that is preferably three or more inches thick, I will draw a circle on top and band saw it round. This will save some work at the lathe.

A cast iron faceplate is the safest method of securing the wood to the lathe but rather than screwing directly into the wood blank, I like to preserve as much stock as possible so I glue on a "waste block" and screw into it. Any inexpensive hardwood such as alder or poplar that is 1-1/2" to 2" thick will do just fine.

As for the type of screws, I recommend using "sheet metal" screws with deep threads which are stronger than wood screws or sheet rock screws. Next, mount the bowl blank on the lathe by threading the faceplate onto the threaded spindle of the headstock. It is a good idea to use the tailstock to help secure the work piece. Now bring up the tool rest and set the height approximately at center, and position it about 1/4" from the stock. With the lathe off, rotate the stock by hand making sure it clears the tool rest. Also set the lathe at a slow speed to start. Many of the newer lathes have electronic variable speed controls which are definitely the way to go. After putting on your face shield, step to the side and turn the lathe on. This is a safe practice and a good work habit to get into.

I do the majority of my turning with a 5/8" high speed steel bowl gouge. With the gouge on its side and the flute facing in the direction of the cut, begin turning from the bottom of the bowl towards the top.

The initial cuts will be truing up the stock, knocking off the high spots, and creating a true cylinder. Remember to hold the gouge on its side with the flute facing upwards at a 45 degree angle. Having sharp tools is essential for all fine woodworking and even more important for woodturning. I recommend a slow speed grinder, 1725 RPM’s with 8" diameter 100 grit aluminum oxide wheels. I am using David Ellsworth's signature 5/8" bowl gouge that has a "side" grind. It has also been referred to as a modified fingernail grind. When sharpening this gouge, what you want to achieve is a nice even convex arc on the top, when you are looking at the "side view" of the gouge tip. When you are looking at the tip from the "top view" the end should have a rounded profile. Now you can begin shaping the outside of the bowl. I like to use "pull" cuts working from the bottom of the bowl towards the top.

Reposition the tool rest as necessary to maintain support close to the stock.

Next use the parting tool to remove some of the sacrificial block or "waste" block so that you can have some access to shape the bottom of the bowl. As you work, train your eyes to look at the "outside" profile or the "horizon line" to get a sense of the shape.

After scraping and sanding the outside of the bowl, I use the gouge to hollow the inside. A curved tool rest is very helpful. I suggest a 1/2" thick round nose scraper to clean up the inside followed by sanding to 320 grit. A "coffee cup ring" is a pleasing base which I strive to be 1/3 of the bowl diameter for stability. I'll turn the sacrificial block down to a 1/2" dowel to turn as much of the base as possible then turn off the lathe, and use a hand saw to cut it off. After chiseling or grinding off the nub, I’ll chuck some sanding disks in the drill press and sand to 320 before giving the bowl a hand rubbed oil finish.